WITH waterway closures and restrictions coming fast and furious it was certainly going to be a risky business taking our Spring cruise this year. But little did we realise it would be floods.
It was originally going to be the Trent with thus a guarantee of plenty of the wet stuff, with a trip to Boston muted, but at the last minute our Thomas fancied the Old Main Line from Wolverhampton to Birmingham, so it was the Trent & Mersey—well it had to be, the only other way through Leicester was closed—and then it was the Staffs & Worcs for the twelfth time.
The waterways may have been short of water, but the sky certainly was not, with even the dog wearing a raincoat! Then of course there was the worry of the Trent at Alrewas, but it seems the ground was soaking up the rainfall, for even after two days of rain, it was still below the green on its marker.
Complaints
I can now well understand the many complaints about continuous moorers taking up moorings, I have never seen so many towpath moored boats on the Trent & Mersey in all the 18 years we've been cruising the waterway—they were everywhere. The entrances to the new marinas were packed with them, with those at Mercia Marina now stretching all the way to Willington. In the past we could always rely on no boats by the level crossing and the railway bridge just before Willington, but it was crowded.
Talking to a few we soon learnt why—the cost of marina mooring had reached its cut-off point, and boaters were simply taking to continuous cruising/mooring, saving themselves over 2,000 quid a year. Simple.
They were even moored by the towpath on the Trent above Wychnor Lock—something I've never seen before. As to whether they were genuine continuous cruisers or not, there was no way of telling, but one thing for sure—they were all licenced! That is certainly something new for that part of the world.
Few moving
In complete contrast, also as others have related, there were fewer boats actually moving, and using the regular moorings, as the empty, normally packed, Branston Water Park moorings show. My regular readers may remember my complaints about long queues at the narrow locks on our last cruise that-a-way, but this time—nothing! All we really saw were hire boats, Canaltime and Shakespeare Line—both getting rather long in the tooth, and well shown up by the pristine Aqua boats. Yet speaking to those hirers, all have something in common—the pathetic television aerials are fairly useless for getting digital reception if any decent way away from the transmitter.
Trees chopped
I was most pleased to see a great many overhanging trees have been chopped down, so the local waterway managers have at least had some cash to spend. And there was 'Emergency Dredging', so the notice told us, at Stenson Lock moorings. But long gone are the days when British Waterways employed its own well versed people doing the work, for this was being done by contractors, and as to the pathetic barge they used—could have done it quicker with a wheelbarrow. And so badly organised, even though two boats, it seemed they only had one driver for the two machines.
And so to Rugeley and shopping of course. It was exactly two years since we approached it from the East, but what a difference. Though we arrived at the same time, but two weeks earlier in the year, there was simply no mooring space whatsoever on the 48 hours moorings, yet two years ago there was just a single boat, but this time the boats stretched further than ever before.
Failed
Little wonder there are so many complaints from boaters unable to get in at the visitor moorings owing to the continuous cruisers/moorers—we are now amongst the complainers! Hold on a bit. Wasn't it the revered Sally Ash of British Waterways who decided that the towpaths be cleared of boats and accommodated in all the new marinas? You've failed lass—totally.
But back to Rugeley, what I just cannot understand is that just through the bridge there is a long stretch of seven days moorings, with not a boat in sight. And even rings at that.
On to the Staffs & Worcs Canal, and here too, and at long last, those overhanging trees, as on the Trent & Mersey had been cut back. It really needed it here with the many twists of this particular waterway. This was most noticeable on the stretch below Stafford Boat Club, where the former narrow channel has had its trees cut right back, giving back a normal width at last. And throughout the Staffs & Worcs it was the same, with numerous overhanging trees having disappeared. Perhaps the cynic in me would remark it was the result of the boat being crushed by a falling tree and a woman losing her life.
Health and safety into orbit
Certainly the case of a lost life of a young boy who was foolhardy enough to attempt to cycle across a very narrow boaters' bridge at Stourport on this very same canal, causing the health and safety bods to go into orbit with their resulting hand rails and very little sense. Take the one at Rodbaston Lock with the 'footbridge' well fenced off though it is part of a 12ft wide road!
These people obviously pronounce their decisions with no idea of the actual sites. Little wonder so many boaters point out that these bridges have served for 200 years without mishap, yet everything gets changed—and let's call a spade a spade here—because a silly lad decides to try such a crazy stunt on such a foot crossing instead of using the nearby bridge. As I have often pointed out, peoples' safety is their own responsibility, and others should surely not be penalised if some can't accept it.
Occupied
At last Deptmore Lock Cottage, after its renovation, was occupied. I well remember many years ago before the cottage had electricity, with the occupant fetching his fuel by boat. From what I was told in the past it seemed he had to get his provisions by boat too, as only the adjoining farm owner had access.
Moored for the night below Shutt Hill Lock, our dog Red needed to 'go' at 4am one morning, but alas, I am not allowed comment on the resulting contretemps.
Deserted towpaths
It was at Teddersley, five days into the cruise, that we eventually saw the first cyclist on the towpath. In an attempt to help British Waterways to get its sums right, up to then I had counted exactly 33 walkers, nearly all with dogs. It wasn't until the sixth—the next day—I saw an angler. So bearing in mind our long winters and the obvious un-attraction of cold dismal canals, at present in the rain, makes you wonder about the 300 million visitors?
It was at Penkridge we spotted Grey Nomad moored—which meant our old mate Ralph Freeman, so it was an unscheduled stop for us to put the waterways world to rights for half an hour. Ralph was one of those who warned us of the lack of boats moving. And for those of you who have noticed he is no longer listed, it is alas, as he is no longer writing for us, wanting to give more time to his photography. It was earlier in the cruise that of the many who recognise our boat, one asked if Ralph was on board. But the only contributor besides of course the best, who is occasionally with us is Alan Tilbury.
A box ticker
Then it was Gailey and spotting the now rarest of breeds—a British Waterways man. But alas not a useful lengthsman of old, but one of course with the invariable hand-held tablet, busily ticking the boxes. I wonder how he managed to record the amount of leakage on the Penkridge Lock shown? Perhaps you believe as I do—there's no box to tick.
On now, and waved past a very slow boat whose steerer told us his engine was overheating. Then a little later a boat in even worse state that we also followed, this time slowly being towed through Wolverhampton Narrows, and again we were waved past.
This one had had its engine 'cooked' our own Orph Mable told us—yes, it was being towed to Oxley Marine, and perhaps we may even be told the story. Something, from all accounts, tales that many of you are enjoying.
I noticed that diesel at Oxley was 86p a litre—a damn sight less than the 98p we paid (and self service at that) at Sawley.
A dippy crew
Very early start to be the first up the Wolverhampton 21, complete with primroses, and joy of joy—every single lock in our favour, the best of the three times we had climbed the locks. I mention 'every one' but there was just one that was full near the top of the flight, for would you believe, what She Who Must etc. etc. described as a dippy crew on a Anglo Welsh boat, had obviously filled the lock to come down, emptied it to get out, then filled it again! And no, there was no boat following them! Mind you I should have known it was a dippy lot, for as we were just coming into the lock below with the bottom gate wide open, one of them started to fill the lock, winding the top gate paddle. So much for their tuition!
In the past we had always moored at the top of the flight, and this time there was plenty of mooring, as no boats. But with the first day of the cruise with no rain, we soldiered on, especially as the forecast was of a downpour the following day.
In want of dredging
The Wolverhampton Level is certainly in want of dredging, as there was no way we could manage our normal revs, with 'She' likening the water to treacle. Mind you, after endless excursions into the weed hatch she wasn't too well enamoured of the waterway. And its ever constant streak of oil didn't help.
However, we met Land & Water doing much needed dredging, and the stuff they were fetching out, shows the cut is little more than the local dumping 'ground'. Though contractors, I've always thought that this company was well capable.
The water of the Wolverhampton Level is remarkable, with those 'treacle' stretches little better than grey mud and the inevitable rainbow of oil on the water, with other stretches so clear you can easily see the bottom.
Having done about every waterway in England, many more times than I care to remember, but only having done the Old Main Line once before, we chose this route into Birmingham, finally ending for the day at some handy offside British Waterways moorings at Tipton Green, that proved quiet and uneventful.
Ages of travel
I rather like the way the M5 is built over the actual waterway, it being most impressive, especially at one point where the Wolverhampton Level passes over the Main Line, with the motorway overhead and a railway in between—certainly showing the different ages of travel. The notice on the motorway showing 'Queue ahead' brought a smile, as we had a completely empty canal to ourselves.
This time the whole country was under rain, so it was a very short day for us, so had had enough by the time we arrived at the very attractive Smethwick Locks, that lowers the canal to the Main Line into Birmingham. I mention attractive as the whole area had been landscaped and mown, but alas the description did not include the waterway, as the local residents still look on the cut as a dumping ground, as the detritus dragged out of the water shows.
Deserted
We had not met or passed a single boat since leaving the solitary Anglo Welsh on the Wolverhampton 21—the whole Wolverhampton Level was deserted. Mind you the weather could have been the cause, as it certainly was for walkers and cyclists. Could count them on one hand. It was wet! So we let She Who Must do the steering!
It was at Bromsgrove we found a new Sainbury's, (pictured) a fairly short walk away from the cut, complete with mooring bollards just by High Bridge—though it isn't.
Though a regular Tesco shopper, I find Sainsbury's to have better quality produce and a longer use-by date, which as you boaters will well know is essential when cruising. Mind you, to my mind they both beat Morrison's, with the one at Rugeley, a regular stop for us, having the produce we needed with only two or three days use. I expect you get what you pay for.
Just a shower the next day, so away we went, passing straight through Birmingham in the sunshine, with even She Who Must who is always treated to a crispy duck at the Chinese restaurant in Birmingham, foregoing her treat, and so to Farmers Bridge Flight out of the city. Of course we were going down, so every lock was empty and needed filling, but such is cruising these days.
Saved from destruction
Mind you this flight is not particularly hard work, as the locks both fill and empty very quickly. I find it very remarkable, how the massive buildings are constructed over the waterway, with pounds and weirs actually under the buildings. I'm sure no one can fail to be impressed by the way the waterway was saved from destruction during the massive building development.
Early on in our cruising career when dropping down these locks, the accompanying photograph was taken showing three British Waterways staff quickly responding to a call that there were low pounds. This time we rang British Waterways as paddles on one lock had been left up emptying the pound above. No great problem, but thought we should report. "We will try and get someone there." The three men appearing again? No way José! After 30 minutes, with no one obviously available due no doubt to the many 'reorganisations', we went back to the top lock and slowly let water through, and shortly after we were on our way.
Visitors?
It was at the top end of the flight we saw quite a few 'visitors'—young people obviously making their way to college, but after about the fourth lock, no one. Just one solitary fellow near the bottom lock, a British Waterways man no less, but alas no windless in sight but paper and tablet—another important box ticker no doubt. What a mess!
We knew there were good safe moorings at Star City on the top of the Grand Union, so for the second time in two years it was it was the Digbeth Branch, but the locks are now leaking so badly the towpath was flooded, not helped by the bywash not being cleared out. The towpath at another lock needed wellies too.
Gate replaced
But at least that rotting beam and gate on one of the Garrison Locks had been replaced—but the same worn-out paddle gear had been put back, with the ratchet well missing the teeth and not holding. Another local manager obviously short of maintenance cash. And it was by no means the only problem on this neglected flight.
Though there were all those 'clutches' of boats on the waterways to the Wolverhampton 21, after this moored boats were a rarity, except for the middle of Birmingham.
The picture shows the visitor moorings on the Grand Union after leaving the Digbeth Branch. Completely devoid of a boat or living thing!
Though She Who Must forsook her crispy duck by us not mooring in Birmingham city centre, we went somewhat down market and gave her Kentucky Fried Chicken instead at Star City. There actually was a 'buffet' Chinese restaurant, but she was not enamoured.
For those of you who have not used these moorings, they are on the off-side behind a locked (BW key) gate, with the complex offering every kind of eatery and entertainment including an umpteen screen cinema, and for those who have more money than sense a casino and lots of other ways to have your cash removed.
Sprint
The next day too was a wet one, so just a three hours 'sprint' under Spaghetti Junction on to the Birmingham & Fazeley Canal. Some of you will know that it is a very acute turn from one waterway to another, and even our 54ft boat needed to touch the wall to spin round, but here are two very prominent notices telling boaters not to do that! Obviously with the bow on the wall it is then a simple matter to face around, otherwise it would be quite a shuffling job, so we used the wall. How a full 70ft boat could possibly get round without using the wall to rest its bow, is beyond me.
I notice that the M6 at Spaghetti is falling down, with contractors very hard at it attempting to make it safe. The age old problem with concrete and steel reinforcing is that once water or air gets to the steel it starts to rust, and like those Walls of Jericho, things tend to take a turn for the worse. The reason for all those sensors on the pilings that you can see from the waterways tell if things are not as they should be. The contractors had pipes into the canal with buoys keeping us away but sending us into the offside bushes. If they were taking our water, surely they could have sucked it up from the river below. Mind you, as far as I could see there was little shortage.
Still no moving boats
All the way from Wolverhampton to well onto the Birmingham & Fazeley all the waterways were well up, with water going over the weirs, so no shortage there. But what about boats? Still meeting no moving boats since the lone hire boat on the '21'. We were well on the Birmingham & Fazeley Canal when at last we met a solitary narrowboat at Curdworth Locks—the first in three days cruising though the waterways capital of the country well into the season. I calculated 30 miles with one solitary boat passing us. These are not ridiculous statistics obtained by somebody at the end of a telephone, but by actually being there and seeing for ourselves. Perhaps the directors at British Waterways should do the same.
It was then Saturday, so the anglers of the Birmingham Angling Association were out on the Birmingham & Fazeley Canal on the pound below the first of Curdworth locks, and I could see the late arrivals busy ripping out the vegetation, letting it float down the waterway. And it was just our bad luck to come across that already removed, that had piled up inside the second lock. We ignored it at our peril, for it became wedged behind the bottom gate jamming the boat as we tried to move forward.
This was pulled out, and a second attempt made to exit the lock, but the pile had jammed underneath between the boat and the bottom of the lock, so with visions of it all finishing up wrapped around the skeg, we backed off again whilst She Who Must had her turn at removing the damn stuff. I don't expect there would be much use telling the anglers not to do it, not in view of the notice they take not to fish on lock moorings...
Stayed put
Then it was that day when the country was splattered by heavy rain and gale force winds, so moored at Fishers Mill Bridge on the Birmingham & Fazeley, we stayed put for the day. There were four boats that braved it, one boater telling us he had to get back, and another passing at a fair crack, but with the wind in this situation it was sensible, as slowing right down could easily have had him hitting us or stuck on the bank should the wind have caught him. It was actually on this pound that we saw a boat so stuck in the side, well held in by the wind.
When we arrived, there was a bridge showing on the stream passing under the canal, but by late afternoon there was little of the bridge left at view. And in the morning none showing, as can be seen in the picture, and this stream led into the Tame that eventually feeds the Trent, though below Alrewas.
A day of sunshine at last, so we beetled on towards Alrewas, but first a tree down by the firing range on the Coventry. Though it was obvious other boaters had squeezed past, the branches were a little too close to our paint work, so out with the cutters, and through, without of course a scratch.
Licenced
One thing that really impressed was the lack of boats without licences. Even the crummiest was proudly displaying an up-to-date licence. It was not until the top end of the Coventry that we noticed clutches of unlicenced boats, with no few moored by Streethay Wharf.
It was exactly two years since we cruised the Coventry Canal, and I well remember the large notice board announcing 'Outstanding New Marina' being constructed, later found to have the rather pretentious name of King's Orchard, offering over 80 berths, but at the time just a big hole. But alas it seems another most likely influenced by the quick-buck returns from all those non existent boats needing berths. Yes you have guessed—it's still just a big hole!
I just wonder how many others were persuaded by that British Waterways gang that was set up to persuade people to build, what has proved to be unwanted marinas, and came a cropper? There are one or two holes about. Is the gang still in existence? Wouldn't be at all surprised. Perhaps here I should mention that the latest admission is that there are now well over a thousand boats less on the waterways that two years ago. So on the assumption that its statistics follow the normal course, that could be at least three thousand less.
Still open
On to Alrewas, and surprisingly the Trent was open, though a little high as can be seen, but after then there was only the very occasional boat approaching — a bad sign. Seeing the state of the Trent on our way down it was obvious that with both the Tame and the Dove pouring into it, it was in flood. And of course, the Derwent too was not helping matters.
This was confirmed when we reached Shardlow and saw every single mooring selfishly taken up by Canaltime boats, both by the Navigation and along the canal bank, so for the third time we could not reach our moorings at Sawley, a disadvantage of mooring in a river marina, but we did managed to squeeze in by the Malt Shovel, and a waiting game.
Before then, boater Brian Atkin had generously offered us his mooring space above Shardlow Lock, refusing to take payment—his boat being stuck in the flood at Holme Pierrepont—but the strong wind put paid to us attempting to reverse such a long distance. But thanks Brian, very much appreciated.
This cruise was somewhat on the wet side, but we still enjoyed it, simply getting dressed for the part, and having shorter cruising days, appreciating a comfortable boat and of course the chat from fellow idiots!
Victor Swift